A boat, house, spouse, new job, etc. – anything worth having has its warts, and these become apparent with time or use. And one thing you can say is J40 sailors use their boats, because they do so many things well. So here is a compendium of tips the group has found or provided to lighten the task of readying your J40 for the next adventure. If you have a new one please submit to the editor at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Maintenance Flow-chart: (apparent credit to propercourse.blogspot.com Nov, 2011)
Need a loose nut? WD-40 (above), PB-Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Goeey Booey or expensive Kroil? Overheard in a sailing bar recently: Kroil is the best of that bunch, but the cheapest route is supposed to be much better… 50:50 automatic transmission fluid & acetone. Haven’t tried it yet, but the source is quite reliable – try at your own risk. A container is the problem as acetone can go through many plastics – use a windex-type spray or eye dropper.
Nothing better than duct tape yet…
New term: “Percussive Maintenance” def: Whack the crap out of it with a hammer.
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Send me your J40 project writeups – shoot pictures, even of the party you throw after you finish!
5-27-2016 NAV Station electrical Panel – Parts still available from BASS, Bristol, CT
Stantion Bases – replacement parts (July 2016) Stantion Bases
Request from Wes Oliver – 3/28/16
Anyone have experience with a flexible coupling on the drive train? J-40 manual says there is one in the system. Never seen one on my boat. Also, manual says there is a cutlass bearing on the engine end of the drive shaft, looks like inboard of the shaft log. Anyone have any knowledge as to whether that bearing is really there?
Wes – Lark did not have a flex coupling, although I later added one. No 2nd cutlass bearing on the engine side – just the one at the external strut. I would think two bearings would fight with the engine mounts, where only one near the outboard end of the shaft really doesn’t. Al
Also from Wes – Another item with sea cocks- my boat has RC sea cocks (Forespar bought RC (NZL) in late ’80’s) I am capping off a no longer used 1 1/2″ sea cock. Heavy use of 5200 on tailpiece threads is making removal of the tailpiece difficult. However, unlike new Forespar Marelon sea cocks, the body of the sea cock is in 2 pieces and the upper piece with the ball valve unscrewed easily. NO 5200 OR OTHER SEALANT. BEWARE. The hose connected to the tailpiece of the sea cock is what secures the sea cock in place!
Propane System: j40-propane-system
Plastic Through-Hulls – alert: Plastic-Through-Hull
Tides Marine Sail Track for the Mainsail 12/2015: Main Sail Groove Track
Cabin Sole: 2/2015: Cabin Sole
Fresh Water Pressure Pump 11/2014: New Battery Charger and Fresh Water System Pump
Cockpit Manual BilgePump Replacement Sept/’13: Replacing the aft bilge pump
Engine Repower Progress Report from LARK (8.6.2013): Lark-Yanmar
Brad Reed’s Video/Slideshow on reconfig of house side ports – Nepenthe (#22): https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=xmdqeqgbYXg
Holding Tanks: J40Holding Tanks
Aft Anchor Locker and Shower (just pix at this point): Aft Shower Anchor Locker
Repacking the Stuffing Box & Packing Flax: http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/stuffing-box.asp
Halyard Clutch Maintenance/Replacement: J40 Halyard Clutches 2013
Mal de Mer III – Misc. Upgrades
– circa 2000: J40 Upgrades, by Ed Huckins: J40 By Ed Huckins
– Boat Diesel Site: http://boatdiesel.com//index.cfm?
Engine Experiences: J40_Engines
Engine Repower – Volvo D2-40: Volvo 2003 to Volvo D240
J40 Original Rigging Guide: J40RigSpecs
J40 Chainplates: Chainplates
Barient Winch Info: Barient Winch Info
J40 Rudder Bearings: Rudder Bearings
Bomar Hatches (still available?): http://www.pompanette.com/bomar
J40 Sails & Measurements: J40_Sails
Tasco Stove Replacement – on Lark #4: Replacing the J40 Stove
Bottomsider J40 Cockpit Cushions: – (they have the pattern): http://www.bottomsiders.com/
ICOM M802 Info from Ed Huckins: Icom M802 SSB